Salzburger Land
Mountains you see from the bed.
Leogang lies in a side valley of the Pinzgau, beneath the Leoganger Steinberge — a limestone massif that looks as if it had been transplanted here from the Dolomites. The valley is short, narrow and ends in a wall.
That has spared the village what befell Saalbach and Kitzbühel. There are ski lifts, yes, and winter business. But Leogang has remained a farming village where farms are still farms and the church is the tallest building.
In summer the Steinberge belong to hikers and climbers, the pastures to cows, and the Asitz to mountain bikers, who find here one of the most serious trails in the Alps.
The Salzburger Land is large and largely interchangeable. Leogang is not.
We recommend Leogang to families who want to ski without ending up in après-ski — and to couples looking for the opposite of a city break. Forsthofgut has been in the same family since 1617 and has nonetheless decided not to be a museum: a natural swimming lake, a forest spa, a kitchen that lives off its own farm. A large house that feels small. Come in January for the snow or in July for the pastures. Avoid the Easter holidays.
