Azores
Volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic.
The Azores lie 1,500 kilometres west of Lisbon, in the middle of the Atlantic, and are what Europe has by way of Hawaii: volcanic islands, crater lakes, hot springs, hydrangeas along every road, and weather that runs through four seasons in a day.
São Miguel is the largest island. In the west, Sete Cidades, a twin crater lake, green and blue. In the middle, Furnas, where the ground steams and food is cooked in the earth. The north coast is wild: black beaches, surfers, cliffs. The south coast is milder, with Ponta Delgada and the island's old summer houses.
The Azores have no crowds because they make no guarantees — not of sun, not of calm seas. Accept that, and you get one of the most unspoilt landscapes in Europe.
You fly four hours and land on another continent that is still Portugal.
We recommend the Azores to people who see weather not as a risk but as the programme. Two houses, two coasts: Santa Bárbara above the black surf beach in the north — timber, cork, bamboo, kitchenettes, a house for people who want to be in the water in the morning. White in Lagoa on the south coast — built from the ruin of a summer house, nine suites on the rocks, guests 14 and over, for couples who want to hear the sea rather than enter it. Come in June or September. Bring a rain jacket and swimming trunks; both will be needed.
